Antique jewelry is much more than old jewelry. It carries handwork, techniques that have almost disappeared and the style of a whole era. But how do you know a piece is really antique, and not just made to look that way? After almost 20 years of sourcing jewelry from around the world, here are the signs we check ourselves.
First: antique or vintage?
Vintage jewelry is at least 20 years old. Antique jewelry is at least 100 years old. The difference isn't only age: most antique pieces were made entirely by hand, before mass production became the norm.
1. The diamond cut
One of the clearest signs. Modern diamonds are usually cut as precise brilliants with a sharp, bright sparkle. In antique pieces you'll often find:
- Old cuts (Old Mine / Old European): round or slightly square stones with larger facets and a small "window" in the center. The sparkle is softer and warmer.
- Rose cut: a flat base topped with a dome of triangular facets, with no point underneath. It looks like a drop of light.
An old-cut diamond doesn't prove a piece is antique, since stones are sometimes reset, but it's a strong sign.
2. Hallmarks and purity marks
Turn the piece over and look for small marks inside the ring, on the clasp or on the pin: a purity mark such as 585 (14K) or 750 (18K), a maker's or workshop mark, and sometimes a country or assay office mark. Worn or partial hallmarks are common on antique pieces, and a missing hallmark doesn't necessarily mean a fake, which is why we acid-test the gold purity of every piece before it goes on sale.
3. Handwork vs. casting
Antique jewelry was built by hand, part by part. Look for hand engraving with lines that aren't perfectly even, filigree (fine gold wires worked into a lace-like pattern) and enamel (colored glass fired onto gold, sometimes with gentle wear that shows its age). A small irregularity isn't a flaw. It's the goldsmith's signature.
4. Period style
- Victorian: carved cameos, lockets, romantic motifs and colored gemstones.
- Art Nouveau: flowing lines, leaves, flowers and female figures.
- Art Deco: sharp geometric lines, symmetry, diamonds with sapphires, emeralds and rubies, white gold or platinum.
Jewelry "in the style of" Art Deco or Victorian is still made today, so style alone isn't enough; it's checked together with the other signs.
5. Clasps, pins and settings
Antique brooches often have a long pin that extends past the edge and a simple C-shaped catch. Closed-back settings (no opening under the stone) are common in early pieces, and antique earrings may have a simple hook or a screw back instead of a modern push back.
6. Natural signs of wear
A 100-year-old piece has been worn. Gentle wear on corners, softly polished gold and lines rounded over the years are natural. A "too new" shine where wear is expected can point to a new piece, or one that has been heavily restored.
How to buy antique jewelry with confidence
- Buy from a shop that checks pieces before sale and offers a warranty.
- Ask for real photos from every angle, including the hallmarks.
- Make sure returns are possible and rings can be resized.
- If you can, come and see the piece in person.
At Pick A Rock every piece is gold-purity tested and imported pieces are checked at the Standards Institution of Israel. We offer a 12-month warranty, 14-day returns, free ring resizing and up to 5 interest-free payments. Visit our showroom at 38 Ibn Gabirol St., Tel Aviv, by appointment.
Looking for a piece with history? Browse our antique jewelry collection, or see all our vintage, antique and pre-owned jewelry. Have a question about a specific piece? Send us a WhatsApp message and we'll be happy to help.
